How to Visit and Mountaineer Matternought Peak

At 11360 feet (3463 meters), Matternought is not the most noteworthy peak in the park, but it packs a real wallop on the Taminah Arete (III 5.9) – sublime moderate climbing and ingenious route finding in a bombastic setting. 
 
Getting to Matternought 
From the Taggart Lake trailhead, take the first right and cross the creek. Roughly 1.1 miles (1.75 kilometers) in, take the Bradley Lake trail for another quarter mile (0.4 kilometers). Then head cross country toward Taggart Lake until you regain a maintained trail, following north toward the moraine between Bradley and Taggart Lakes. About 6960 feet (2121 kilometers) up on the moraine, before the first switchback, follow the faint trail on the left towards Avalanche Canyon. 
 
Once you’ve hit the fork of Taggart Creek, follow the cone north of Shoshoko Falls until it’s possible to get to Lake Taminah. There’s showstopping camping here, if you’ve got the time. 
 
Your Basic Requirements 
No surprise that camping in Avalanche Canyon requires a permit, no sooner than 48 hours before departure. The Jenny Lake Ranger station issues permits using a quota system, which can fill quickly – we suggest you get there at 8 AM sharp. 
 
What Should You Expect? 
The easiest route takes the east ridge and couloir at a class 5. The approach to Taminah Arete can be found from the west shore of Taminah Lake, where you follow talus up and west beneath a pretty large face. Keep an eye out for the break in the lowest rock band at the left edge, they scramble towards the base of an orange wall that marks the beginning of the route. Bring your climbing gear and good shoes. 
 
History Meets Beauty 
The First Peoples temporarily settled the Tetons 9000 years ago, visiting periodically. After Lewis and Clark’s expeditions, beaver fur trade was the major resource untilthe Tetons Park was established in 1840.