How to Visit and Mountaineer Middle Teton

Middle Teton is a charming and sought-after peak in the Teton Range. The peak summit is 12,809 feet, and it sits on the eastern side of the Teton Range. Middle Teton is a classic alpine peak with a pyramidal shape that glaciers crafted for millions of years. Many mountaineers remember the first time they saw the Middle Teton after breaking out of the trees in Garnet Canyon, and the view of the Grand Teton is spectacular from the Middle Teton. The first-ever ascent was recorded in 1923.  
 
What to Expect 
This famous summit holds a wide range of routes, including scrambles, rock routes, and ice routes. While there are some beginner routes available, there are also a few challenging ways to conquer the peak. The easiest route to take is the Southwest Ice Couloir. The path is mostly third-class rock blended with a few fourth-class steps mixed into the journey. North Ridge and Buckingham Ridge are both listed at a difficulty of 5.7, and East Buttress is a 5.11 difficulty. The Northwest Ice Couloir and the Middle Teton Glacier are by far the most challenging routes on the peak. They are both listed as AI3 and are a strong challenge for mountaineers.   
 
Essential Gear 
Essential gear free climbing Middle Teton includes mountain boots, rock shoes, a helmet, a headlamp, a harness, carabiners, and a belay. An ice axe and crampons are essential for more advanced routes. 
 
How to get to Middle Teton 
Middle Teton is just south of the Grand Teton in the Grand Teton National Park. Mountaineers can access the peak by going to Lupine Meadows trailhead. Overnight stays at the park are free, but campers need a permit to stay the night.